19 October 2025

The unfathomable smoothness of Raji Welgama

 


Raji Welgama is known best, at least among those interested in Sinhala music, for the lyrics voiced by Sunil Edirisinghe: me tharam siyumelida kalugal… (can rock be so smooth…). Some years after the song became popular, I asked Raji what it was all about. His response astounded me: ‘matavath hithaganna baha.’ He himself could not explain.

This is not impossible nor improbable. Things get read and re-read, interpreted and re-interpreted. It makes for a lot of noise. And after a while whether or not there’s noise, we simply do not or even cannot hear. Perhaps that’s what happened.

In a way, Raji’s response sits well with the song itself. Let me try to translate:

Since I could not fathom 
the smoothness of granite

I went looking for the man
who gave eyes to the Aukana Buddha.
(Somewhere) close to the Kala Wewa
upon a mat he lay
in the verandah of an iluk-thatched mud hut
caressing aches and gazing
upon waves that birthed and perished.
When I inquired about the lover
who in Isurumuniya he carved
he laughed (and said) ‘still single am I.’


I have heard tell that from the eye-level of the Aukana Buddha statute one could see the waters of the Kala Wewa, located some 10 kilometers away. The hand gesture, I am told, is a variation of the Abhaya Mudra, denoting reassurance, blessing and protection. In the context of the song, a calming of turbulent waters or waves, one might say. From that height anyone, the sculptor especially, could see and therefore reflect upon, if so inclined, the ebb and flow of the liquid work of engineering art that is the Kala Wewa. It is not hard to understand the metaphoric yield and it being applied to the ata lo dahama, the eight worldly conditions (profit-loss, fame-disgrace, praise-blame, joy-sorrow). The sculptor imagined by the lyricist, it could be argued, was but caressing (note: not gripping hard nor being dismissive, and therefore adhering to the 'middle path') the ‘aches’ of the eternal verities; reflecting upon or treating with equanimity, in fact.

Raji could not fathom the smoothness. He couldn’t understand how such perfection could be hewed from rock with, one assumes, just hand and chisel. He went looking for the artist. The artist didn’t have an answer.

There’s a legend about the Aukana that I have referred to more than once. King Dhatusena while traveling with his Royal Sculptor is said to have chanced upon the particularly striking rock formation at Aukana. He is said to have asked the sculptor whether he had seen the Buddha. The sculptor had said that yes, indeed, he had seen the Buddha. In other words he could visualise the image that could be wrought from rock simply by carving out that which was ‘not Buddha.’

Perhaps Raji implied that the exercise crafted the craftsman even as the sculptor sculpted. We don’t know whether or not he was well versed in the doctrine or if in the process of ‘giving eyes to the Buddha’ he obtained insights that had eluded him before.

Not all things can be explained. This much is evident in the song and of course in Raji’s one-line, half-amused and half-serious, response to my question.

Not all things are clear. For example, I do not know if the person who sculpted the Isurumuniya Lovers was the very same gal vaduva who ‘saw the Buddha at Aukana’ and decided to make the Enlightened One visible to one and all. And we know that sometimes those who celebrate love are not blessed (or burdened?) to love and be loved. Raji’s sculptor doesn’t seem to be too concerned. He could laugh at the fact that he was still single.  

Who gave eyes to the Aukana Buddha? Where does he live now? What thoughts crossed his mind or has he succeeded in carving out all such clutter from heart, mind and being? Having listened to the song many times, such questions invariably come to mind whenever I visit Aukana or Kala Wewa. They come to mind even in ‘Kala Wewas’ that are not named ‘Kala Wewa,’ for any water body can be imagined as THE Kala Wewa. They come to mind now and then when I encounter any Buddha statue or any statue for that matter.  And even when I visit Isurumuniya, as I did last week.



This time I didn’t look at the rock sculptures. I just took the path on the side of the temple premises and went up the steps that led to the Tisa Wewa bund. Yes, for that moment, it was to me the Kala Wewa. As I approached I noticed a man seated at the top most step. Beside him was a bicycle. He was selling small bags of sliced mangoes and sliced guavas. He was waiting for customers. He probably had a salt, pepper or chilli powder mix he could sprinkle on the fruit if so requested.

It was a Monday. A slow day for him. So he said. There were years written on his face. There was a smile that spoke to me of aches caressed. There were eyes that seemed to carry the weight and lightness that often gets written when contemplating the movement of water.

And I remembered Raji Welgama all over again. I cannot fathom even now how anyone could write lyrics so smooth. 

[This article was published in the Daily News under the weekly column title 'The Recurrent Thursday']


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